Curiosities of Cosplay: Chezah

(Originally published Winter 2019)

The actual game of Final Fantasy XIV is only part of why many of us love playing. XIV inspires not only the imaginations of its creatively-minded players, but also builds the foundation for the talented communities which these artists call home. Whether it’s friends encouraging each other or passionate creators pooling their talents, XIV players produce stunning works of art in writing, screenshots, illustrations, merchandise, and cosplays that would never have come into being otherwise. Chezah, possibly one of the most recognizable cosplayers in the FFXIV community, attests to that fact herself. To consider cosplay as a means of connection not only to other cosplayers but the XIV community as a whole, to express joy for a game we all love, and to encourage each other to pursue our own creative expressions of that joy, has clearly been a pursuit of Chezah’s ever since she started sharing her work online. So create, XIV players, and keep creating, and if you need some inspiration, read on for my interview with the lovely Chezah first! 

Tell us a bit about your background. Your online presence with cosplay only goes back to 2015, but I imagine you were cosplaying – or at least had an interest in it – before that. Did you study costuming in university?

Chezah: No, I did not study costuming or fashion design. I have always been interested in dressing up, going back to kindergarten and primary school where my mom made the costumes for me. My first real cosplay, though, was in 2012 for my first convention. I then took a break because school took up a lot of time, but after I graduated I started cosplaying again while I lived in America, and started using social media in 2015 to share my work.

If FFXIV players weren’t familiar with your work after your red mage costume in 2017, they absolutely were after you crafted Yoshi-P’s gunbreaker costume for the 2019 EU FanFest. When did Square Enix approach you about commissioning the costume?

Chezah: Square Enix approached me right after Gamescom 2018 and asked if I ever made commissions, which I only did for close friends. For further discussions I had to sign an NDA, of course.

You mentioned in your interview with MogTalk that, aside from occasional costumes for friends, you hadn’t previously created a cosplay as a commission for someone else. I have to imagine the pressure knowing you could create a costume for Yoshi-P himself was incredible. Did you have to take time to think over the offer before accepting?

Chezah: I was super excited but also extremely nervous when Square Enix told me that he was going to wear the costume. And that was minutes before they showed me the design during the meeting back in September. When I first saw it they gave me a few minutes to think about it and then asked if I was interested and ready to do this. How could I turn down such an offer?

You also talked about having to remake the jacket and the complexity of 3D printing the gun. Was there ever a point you worried about the final product, or did you just keep your head down and trust your process? Did you have to change how you normally approach making costumes for yourself?

Chezah: Not really, no. There were parts I have never really made before so I took some extra time and care to build them aside from the Gunblade. I always got very positive feedback from Yoshida and the team so that kept me very motivated!

Final Fantasy costumes are notoriously complex (sometimes nonsensically so); every cosplayer I’ve talked to has a different method of translating the designs they see on paper to a wearable, physical product. Sometimes this means tweaking aspects of the design to fit their measurements more comfortably or adding some of their own perspective to a design. With the Gunbreaker, though, I imagine you were expected to be on-the-nose accurate to the 3D model design. Were any parts of the digital Gunbreaker design particularly challenging to interpret physically?

Chezah: I got A LOT of pictures and several different references for the Gunbreaker. And since I’m a perfectionist when it comes to cosplay I obviously made it as perfect as possible. Of course I had to keep Yoshida’s measurements in mind but those were no problem at all. There were some parts in the design though that required to bring in my own style. And yes, I was allowed to do it as long as it works with the rest of the design. My only problem at first was the bullet belt on the left side. Since it was 3D printed it had quite some eight to it so I sewed velcro directly to the coat and then the counterpart onto parts of the bullet belt. It  was the easiest way to attach and detach it for transportation without it breaking or damaging the coat.

After all the work of building gunbreaker, how did you feel when you finally presented the costume to Square Enix and saw Yoshi-P wearing it?

Chezah: I was really nervous. I remember waiting in the meeting room with all the cosplay parts on a big table, and then Ayumi came in along with Toshio and some others from the team. They were looking at every part and detail and asked me again how I did it and were actually surprised by how lightweight the armor was. They were more than happy with it. After I showed them everything Yoshida came in and it went so quick. I had to dress him, they took pictures, and then it was over.

That was a couple days prior to the main presentation. After that I had to dress him two more times before the event and I wasn’t feeling nervous at all anymore. But when he stepped out on stage, all eyes on him, thousands of people watching him live and on stream I just started crying and cheering very loudly because that was the most important part and the point where it was basically over. It sounds sad, but it wasn’t at that time because I was just so relieved that they loved the Gunbreaker and that everything went so smoothly. The people sitting next to me at that time didn’t even know what was going on with me until the next day.

You’ve mentioned that your Final Fantasy 4 dragoon cosplay back in 2016 was your first time building armor. Artists are often advised to finish small projects to build the skills they need for managing larger ones, but you dove right into the deep end! What pushed you to tackle armor with such complex shapes, colors, and details for your very first armor cosplay? Or had you already been exploring those techniques in other projects?

Chezah: Ever since I saw that armor I knew I wanted to make that. I fell in love with the colors and shapes. Of course I watched a ton of tutorials on how to start with armor, what the best tools are, and what materials I can use. It was a nice challenge and I learned a lot for my future builds while making it. I was very happy about it at that time (and I still am), but with the skills I gained over the years I look back at it and want to redo certain parts. Maybe someday when I’m not drowning in my super long cosplay list.

With the frequency at which you’ve finished costumes over the last year – gunbreaker, Y’shtola, Exarch, and Darklander – how do you approach managing several complicated costumes simultaneously?

Chezah: Oh, that’s easy! Depending on what I start with, let’s say an armor, I work on it until I literally can’t see it anymore and then just switch to sewing. But sometimes I take longer breaks and work on fabric parts during the day and then work on armor and accessories during the evening. I just love to work on cosplay.

I imagine being able to switch focus to different parts of costumes helps you look at each piece with a fresh eye. With working on so many projects at once, are you ever concerned about burnout? How do you manage to not push yourself too hard on your projects?

Chezah: That’s a very good question. I sometimes don’t even notice myself that I’m working until late at night and then have some friends yelling at me to go to bed. I also like to test my limits and see how far I can go without actually burning out myself and still have fun crafting costumes. Over the years I kind of got a feeling when it gets too much and when I should stop.

You’re very open about the sheer amount of work that goes into your builds, and that dedication and time are what truly define having “talent.” Do you believe talent has any innateness at all, or is it purely the willingness to dedicate vast amounts of time to a discipline? Is that a perspective you hold for many aspects in life, particularly creative ones? 

Chezah: I do think you can be born with a certain talent. I myself do not think I’m talented, though. I am just hardworking and pour hours into my cosplays like so many other cosplayers, too. So yes, in my opinion it is the willingness to dedicate our time into our craft to create amazing cosplays.

While tutorials and research are key to learning new skills and tools, there’s also a certain amount of experience and understanding you need to know how to translate that knowledge to the specific project you’re working on. How much does trial and error vs. research factor into your process? When do you know that you will need to turn to a tutorial for figuring out how to build something rather than just figuring out how to make it work on your own?

Chezah: I think it is more tutorial based learning when you get started with cosplay, and then you use everything you learned from those videos or written tutorials on your cosplays. Once you have a basic understanding, you work smoother, quicker, and much safer. Since there isn’t a tutorial for everything on the internet, you will later have to try out different techniques and maybe discover something new.

Can you remember any specific instances where you had to try several techniques or attempt something new to achieve the final product?

Chezah: Thinking back to when I made Zenos, which was the most challenging next to the Gunbreaker, I had a hard time making the Gun barrel or as I call it the “spinny boy.” It spins ingame so I obviously wanted to make it spin in real life, too. But how do I do this? I watched a lot of videos and spent quite some time at the hardware store figuring out a technique and how to make it as lightweight as possible. In the end, I ordered an aluminum ball bearing and built the rest of the weapon around it.

Just from scrolling on your Instagram, it’s obvious you put a lot of time and care into the photoshoots for your costumes. You have scouted some stunning locations, perhaps most notably the Altes Kurhaus Aachen for your red mage. What pushed you to enhance your photoshoots with thematic locations?

Chezah: I talk to photographers beforehand and we both look for if we can find a location or just shoot in a photo studio. The location for the Red Mage was the photographer’s idea. We also want to bring the character to life as good as possible so those thematic locations are just perfect for it!

Once you scout a location, how do you go about planning a photoshoot? Do you already have a good idea what shots you and your photographer want, or do you improvise during the shoot?

Chezah: I sit down with the photographer and send him in game references, trailers, or videos. Then we talk about what is possible and what is not. We do improvise a few things when either of us has an idea. It is always a lot of fun, too. 

 Are you ever concerned viewers might overlook the detail and craftsmanship of your costumes while looking at a more stylized photo?

Chezah: Sadly yes. I am so weak for details that I can spend hours over hours making them even if they are hidden, like the underside of Zenos’ shoulder armor. It is a curse and a blessing at the same time. Though I always show some of the details in my posts. When I’m at a photoshoot I ask if the photographer can take close ups of certain pieces people might miss, like I did in 2018 with Zenos’ armor where I posted details over a week before sharing the full picture.

Is that one reason you frequently post WIP and finished build pictures on Instagram and Twitter? So people can see all the detailing and work without any sort of distractions and filters?

Chezah: Exactly! I like to take them with my phone, too, with no filters or anything else.

There are numerous cosplay makeup tests on your Instagram, such as make-up for Kefka, a styled Aymeric wig, and an Y’shtola wig and ears, some of which have led to full cosplays, others not yet. Are makeup tests a way for you to explore which costumes you want to fully commit to? How do you “let go” of cosplays you wish you had the time or resources to make?

Chezah: On the one hand they are just for fun and to practice my skills; on the other hand I like to see how close to the original I can get with “just” makeup. I also look into all the details of that character to get a plan where to start and how to build certain parts. Sometimes this is the point where I say no to that project since I like to challenge myself. This doesn’t count for all of them, though. Another important aspect is if the character is new or not. So going with the newest expansion/patch is relevant to me, too.

Given the wide array of your costumes, what draws you to particular characters? Is it something in their physical design that catches your attention, or does the character’s personality play a large role?

Chezah: It is actually both. Sometimes I just like the character, and when the design fits, too, I go for it. Lyse, for example, I only decided to make to have a nice summer cosplay in between all this full body armor.

You’ve showcased a variety of costumes – Aranea Highwind, Spider-Gwen, Samus, and Assassin’s Creed, just to name a few. Do you see yourself continuing to focus on Final Fantasy XIV cosplays for awhile, or are you itching to shake up your roster soon?

Chezah: I will never stop making Final Fantasy XIV cosplays but I will dive into other games. I had my eyes on a few Monster Hunter World costumes, so maybe you will see some in the future.

For independent artists, creating for yourself and creating for your followers is a thin line to walk, increasingly so these days with social media and their ever-changing algorithms playing such a key role in building an audience. Do you find yourself negotiating between projects that you personally want to pursue, and ones you think will appeal to your followers? If so, how?

Chezah: Since most of my followers like FFXIV or know me because of my FFXIV cosplays, they pretty much support me with every decision, which makes it easier for me to actually choose my cosplays. I sometimes do polls on my social media and let my followers choose from a handful of cosplays. A lot of artists struggle with the algorithm on social media, especially the smaller ones that really want to get out there, so it’s super important to retweet/share their work.

For someone who takes such pride and care in every detail of their costumes, normally one would think the affirmation of winning cosplay competitions would be your focus, but you emphasize that they are only a footnote in the narrative of your work. Instead, you focus on connecting with other FFXIV cosplayers and people who just enjoy what you create. Was connecting with others through cosplay always important for you, or has your perspective on why you cosplay changed over the years? Do you ever regret being so public about your costuming process?

Chezah: To be honest I would have never in my life expected to play such a big part in the Final Fantasy XIV community. So, yes, it has changed the way I look at cosplay and why I do it. The fun part never changed, though. Cosplay is about having fun and it should always be one of the top reasons even if you do it as a business. I never regretted being public about my process or cosplay in general since that is basically what I wanted to do in the first place – share my work with others.

You joined The Wandering Unity, a collaborative group that strives to bring FFXIV creators and fans together,back in August 2018, and you’re an admin there now. Has working with TWU changed your connection to the FFXIV community at all? At what point did you realize your FFXIV friends were more like family than just fans and peers and you wanted to interact more closely with them?

Chezah: Yes, joining The Wandering Unity and being an admin there now has changed my connection to the community just a bit. I always say, if anyone has questions or concerns or just wants to say something they can always message me privately or comment under a post of mine. Though not everyone is comfortable with direct messages. On the other hand there are people who prefer to talk privately. TWU is a better way to connect directly and interact with way more people at the same time.

Tell us a bit about your character in-game! What is your main class, and what is your favorite way to spend your time in Eorzea?

Chezah: I am a female Miqo’te (Seeker of the Sun) and have been playing Bard for years which has been my main since I started playing FFXIV, but I changed to Gunbreaker now due to changes in our static. It is something completely new to actually seriously raid as a tank. It takes up most of my time online when I’m not busy leveling other classes (if I have the motivation to) or taking screenshots.

Thank you so much for taking the time to share more about yourself and your cosplays! Where can readers find you online if they’d like to see more of your work? 

Chezah: 

Thank you for reaching out to me! They can find me on Twitter, Instagram, and Facebook.

You can also support Chezah’s work on her Patreon!